admin 发表于 2021-7-18 10:20:14

乘坐53个小时的青藏铁路到拉萨是怎样的体验?

我就是清晰地记得,在9月3日12306开放车票预售的第一时间,我“鬼使神差”地按下了确认键。

但是直到临出发前,我那激动的心情,仍伴随着复杂、抵抗的情绪。
我不知道自己是否会出现高反,因为我曾经两次踏上高原都铩羽而归;
我不知道自己是否会无聊烦闷,因为我要在火车上呆53小时无所事事;
我不知道自己是否会孤单无助,因为我要一个人在拉萨
度过漫漫数日;
我不知道......

不管怎样,我还是踏上了这趟旅程,给自己的人生list又划上了一个钩。





【Z264】广州-拉萨

第一次产生国庆中秋假期去西藏
的念头,是在7月份,当时查了一下 广州 - 拉萨
的机票,往返5000,也就打消了念头。也就是刹那之间,脑海中一个声音告诉我,不如,来一次火车旅行,从 广州 到 拉萨。

9月2日晚上,我查了下10月1日 广州 去 拉萨
的火车票,上面提示,9月3日开放售票。这真是天意,不早不晚,给我预留了抢票的时间。

9月3日,我打开了app,眼望着“硬卧892”这个按钮,迟疑了许久,到底该不该去?不过一会儿,
系统提示要重新刷新,我一刷新,只剩下54张票,不能再犹豫了,我按下了确认键,一条简短的系统确认信息发送到了我手机上。
我长吁一口气,仿佛解决了一件大事,放下手机,转身做其他事情。其实我还没准备好,想着只要在15天内取消,我依然有反悔的机会。
只是随着时间的推移,我逐渐把住宿、回程机票、景区门票订好,把抗高反的药物买好,我就知道,我再也没有机会反悔。 拉萨,我必须要来了。

去高原,最担心的莫过于高反,而对高反起决定性作用的,莫过于,千万不要感冒。一切如常,
只是到了临出发前2天,我居然感觉到喉咙不舒服,有咳嗽的症状。我不敢告诉家人,因为他们一直反对我自己一个人去 西藏
,尤其是我身体出现了状况,更是不能告诉他们,引起他们的担心。我买了一些感冒药和消炎药,想在去高原前将病况按压下来。


10月1日,国庆节。
不知道是心理作用还是真是如此,反正病情没有完全按压下来,带着点点的鼻音,拖着一个行李箱,背着一个摄影包,踏上了 西藏
的朝圣之路。

搭上去往 西藏
的列车,并没有什么不同之处,依然是普通的候车厅,普通的站台,候车的每个人脸上都带着兴奋和喜悦,期待着53小时后的惊喜。
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3D/DF/wKgBZ1ng5XqAIYaaAAbxEx3oMWU09.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3D/E8/wKgBZ1ng5XuAfb_HAAiA0MFJzuM93.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


每一个来到【广州←→西宁-拉萨】的标识前,都会自拍或他拍,留下自己的身影。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3D/EE/wKgBZ1ng5XyAJxXsAArUUtKUKuc61.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3D/F6/wKgBZ1ng5X6AM-hsAAhngiYXu1k36.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


一如既往的硬卧,没有丝毫的惊喜,这张狭窄的床铺,将陪伴我未来的53小时。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/09/wKgBZ1ng5YGAUVkrAAZdywEZ84M71.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


z264分两趟列车, 广州 - 西宁 是普通的列车,到 西宁 后全体人员换乘供氧的火车,正式开始青藏铁路之旅。
时间漫长,列车上的人或玩手机,或搂着睡觉,或看窗外的风景。


http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/30/wKgBZ1ng5YaAZCM-AAS-2xFypGg80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/34/wKgBZ1ng5YeAZlUTAAaVeKEC62c62.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


火车上的餐饮并不理想,因此自带泡面成为了众多人的选择。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/3C/wKgBZ1ng5YiAAh-6AAZlrgJI-Qg40.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


来自各地的人们带着同样的目的搭上了这趟列车,大家天南地北,却永远有聊不完的共同话题。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/48/wKgBZ1ng5YmAIeGDAAW8R8EGv7w77.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


一个小孩全程在打王者荣耀,不知道因为信号问题坑了多少队友,而我在玩的时候,他也是毫不客气将身子紧紧贴在我身上盯着手机看,
“讨厌”的不得了。因为这个举动,导致我输了不止一把,直接从王者跌到了星耀。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/4F/wKgBZ1ng5YmAV_uxAAYN40Qk7QU40.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


在去西藏
前提前买了红景天、高原安,但是基本都没有按时按量服用,不知是否因为如此,自己后面在高原没有完全适应过来。能救命的,居然是止痛药。
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/55/wKgBZ1ng5YqAKwabAAWXo1ZQ2X473.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


列车上,除了泡面,还有各种粉丝~

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/56/wKgBZ1ng5YuAKIpPAAT1sB8oKTA17.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


也有各种零食。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/5A/wKgBZ1ng5YuAfHu1AAYphKgEWks01.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


当然少不了手机这一神器,绝对是53小时居家旅行的好媳妇。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/60/wKgBZ1ng5YyAHc_LAASWWPbwkzc37.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


很多人担心火车上没有电源,庆幸的是,火车上是有电源的,在硬卧车厢,每两个包厢就有一个电源插座,
但是电压不稳定,部分插座是不能供电的,也不允许使用排插。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/65/wKgBZ1ng5YyAJrANAAOaM1OR4mo66.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


我想拍下这个姑娘的时候,她身后的大叔却注意到了镜头,于是做了一个OK的手势,
后来他走到我跟前看拍的如何,我抱歉地笑了一下,对焦点并不是那个大叔。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/68/wKgBZ1ng5Y2ATTdcAAVvNAFRyS847.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/6A/wKgBZ1ng5Y2AKrKYAAUokfOzAO058.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


每节车厢都有一排洗手盆,可以在晚上的时候刷牙、洗脸。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/6A/wKgBZ1ng5Y6AY7qkAARB7Bqh91497.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/6A/wKgBZ1ng5Y6AXcpyAAT_1rL8qhs10.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


随着时间的推移,尽管列车仍有乘务员清洁打扫,但是抵不过乘客太多,垃圾逐渐成堆,洗手间也越来越脏......

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/6B/wKgBZ1ng5Y-AV2eQAATcPLZDIts86.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


同一个包厢的广州夫妻,下午还在列车上的时候,他们惊闻自己的孩子走丢了,打了一个多小时的电话,他们甚至还打算到达西宁后乘坐最早的飞机返回广州,
幸运的是他们多方联系,终于联系上了孩子。

53小时的漫漫旅途,偶有信号,有时候也是那么的无助。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/6C/wKgBZ1ng5Y-Af7MNAAQqYnA3a4c16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/70/wKgBZ1ng5ZCAbtBmAASMz_4wfsg15.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/7E/wKgBZ1ng5ZGAID_dAAXPdGL7SX091.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


到了兰州,列车的停靠时间比较长,于是难得所有人都下了火车,走动一下,呼吸新鲜空气。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/8A/wKgBZ1ng5ZKAbKmgAAZsDCD8-3c27.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


列车提供的餐饮,不仅有餐车提供的盒饭(25元一份饭),也可以选择到7号车厢去点餐,
只是价格相对来说会贵一点,基本都是含有辣椒的,对于不能吃辣的我来说,却是有点食之无味。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/96/wKgBZ1ng5ZSAdK7jAAVka9B-GsE33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


列车快要到达西宁,乘务员在列车上向每一位乘客取回乘客卡。


http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/9A/wKgBZ1ng5ZWAO02HAAXJFOtHeoA53.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


终于在10月2日晚上,到达了西宁,换上了传说中供氧的列车。西宁海拔2295m,
不知道是不是心理作用,出列车的时候,除了刺骨的寒风外,我不禁大口呼吸了一下,
感觉到了明显稀薄的空气,上车以后,赶紧吃了一颗红景天。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/9E/wKgBZ1ng5ZWAZ4C0AAS4V7mzYsw90.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/A4/wKgBZ1ng5ZaAXAXeAAZPtV0DmCc63.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


每个包厢都有供氧口。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/A9/wKgBZ1ng5ZaAGXPPAASM4FhzVFI80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


还是同样的位置,但是感觉火车更新,更干净整洁一些。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/AC/wKgBZ1ng5ZeAdIp9AAaOjYnZ-hc28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/AE/wKgBZ1ng5ZeAWqjNAAQUtjMHz4815.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


上车后,又要再填写一次乘客健康登记卡,感觉像是填写生死状一样,一下子填出了使命感。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/B0/wKgBZ1ng5ZiAFB6jAAQlPxIo5aw67.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


没想到到了晚上8点多,乘务员依然推着餐车进来,只是大家早在6点多就用了晚餐,
用余光看了下餐车里的饭菜,感觉明显比之前的列车更好,只可惜已经用过晚餐,只能作罢。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/B4/wKgBZ1ng5ZiACsBSAAYVwiCR81074.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


列车还有餐车送来了水果和酸奶,乘务员极力推荐说西藏

老酸奶好喝,在我的怂恿下,车厢里的伙伴们也买了几盒,我感到满满的成就,30小时的交流,我已经不再感到孤独。


http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/B7/wKgBZ1ng5ZmAc-JpAAURsXPqAIs08.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


9点30分,列车准时熄灯,所有人都已经上了自己的床铺休息,准备在睡梦中迎接高反的到来。原本喧闹的车厢走廊,瞬间没了动静。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/BA/wKgBZ1ng5ZmAYZxCAAXhEe31VHQ55.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


而我依然没有睡意,随处走动,一看海拔刻度表,居然才2小时,就已经到了3355m的高度,看了下地图,定位显示的位置在青海湖旁,却没办法欣赏到青海湖的美景。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/C0/wKgBZ1ng5ZqAe8OKAAVUNS4zMrI78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


由于青海的天气是阴天,因此也无法看到所谓窗外满天繁星的景象。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/C5/wKgBZ1ng5ZuAc9HwAAcFYeJ2sLI37.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/CB/wKgBZ1ng5ZuADFGMAAYMWIKaqT859.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


时间已经到了11点,就算再没有睡意,也不能不睡了,挣扎着上了床铺,却开始感觉到有点头疼,
看了一集《白夜追凶》,硬着头皮闭上了眼睛。列车在凌晨3点到达格尔木,供氧系统才正式启用。
辗转反侧了一晚,也没有睡好,列车在格尔木停靠的时候,甚至还听到列车外人员的说话声......

第二天一早,就被嘈杂声吵醒,脑仁疼痛无比,但是天色已亮,挣扎着坐了起来,看看窗外,已经是高原的景色。


http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/D1/wKgBZ1ng5Z2AAzoVAAsk-UQA0rQ28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


天气不好,太阳在云雾中升起。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/D4/wKgBZ1ng5Z2ARx8RAARTeSf3uY808.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/DE/wKgBZ1ng5Z6ABEnfAAdlXENYl4M87.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


12个小时后,此时依然在青海境内,但是海拔已经攀升到4500m。

中国移动、中国联动在列车上并不好用,只有中国电信还是依然坚挺。


http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/E5/wKgBZ1ng5Z-AKvQlAAUCwqlWatk72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


大家都已经按捺不住激动的心情,开始举着相机和手机,在窗边候着绝佳的风景。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/E9/wKgBZ1ng5aCAHnD4AAU3tvfwXKE85.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/EA/wKgBZ1ng5aCAcNipAAXeODB1Flc80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


一辆辆货车在孤单的公路上行驶着。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/EE/wKgBZ1ng5aGAHOtcAAhX0k8523477.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


千里冻土上的铁路,凝聚着劳动人民的智慧。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3E/FE/wKgBZ1ng5aOAdnK9AA0gyRcE2t093.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/07/wKgBZ1ng5aOAL-nyAAVhzdCAjrg29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/0D/wKgBZ1ng5aSAOj5ZAAVEmx-gpoo24.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/14/wKgBZ1ng5aWAUAlpAAnBL8HX_GQ92.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


远远看到唐古拉山,这将是青藏铁路沿途看到最高的山脉。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/1C/wKgBZ1ng5aaAIN4jAAoJ1UKKVHs08.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


到了安多
,也意味着终于进入了西藏
。这并不是青藏铁路的停靠站,在行驶的过程中我抓拍下来了这一遥远、孤独的站台。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/1F/wKgBZ1ng5aiAZF9bAAxAEOknEGE01.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


连绵起伏的高原地貌,配合着光影的变化,神秘莫测。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/29/wKgBZ1ng5amAa5tGAAhwJxfYldE76.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


天气逐渐转晴,风景也开始好了起来。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/36/wKgBZ1ng5aqAJTBaAA17IHc07A499.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


青藏铁路旁的放哨站,有着武警官兵孤独地守着,列车经过,他们都会敬礼。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/3E/wKgBZ1ng5auAbzjpAAtC6aK4onQ33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


进入安多
后,青藏铁路沿途风景的重头戏,就算是措那湖了。措那湖是怒江的源头湖,海拔4800米,面积约300平方公里,是世界海拔最高的淡水湖。

远远看到湛蓝的湖水,大家已经开始忍不住欢呼。


http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/47/wKgBZ1ng5a2AUe4KAAs8S6piveI97.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


自新西兰后,再一次看到这样的湖水,竟然激动不起来。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/59/wKgBZ1ng5a-ARafIAAvw1nrDtI472.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


眼前的这一切,让我想到了《后会无期》里面的歌词。

我曾经跨过山和大海
也穿过人山人海
我曾经拥有着一切
转眼都飘散如烟
我曾经失落失望失掉所有方向
直到看见平凡才是唯一的答案
......http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/7C/EC/wKgBZ1nomWCACgtxAAo6XHurJuc41.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
此时眼前的西藏
,并没有想象中的那样苍劲,而是闪烁着湛蓝色光辉的那般温柔。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/7C/EE/wKgBZ1nomWOAJv2pAAp8nr2APpg48.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


此刻多想停下车来,走到湖边,用手轻抚湖面,感受那冰冷的温柔。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/60/wKgBZ1ng5bCAc1gMAAvD4gSvGn070.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/69/wKgBZ1ng5bOAeqveAA1qhejYPUk00.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


水晶一般的湖水,自由飞翔的鸟儿,延绵的山脉。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/7B/wKgBZ1ng5bSATPiWAAumoGYXORo35.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


在众人的惊呼声中,列车驶离了措那湖,同一个包厢的阿姨在兴奋完后开始感到头晕,又回到了床铺上休息。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/82/wKgBZ1ng5bWAO1iSAAgw3ke9d-E33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/87/wKgBZ1ng5bWAAWx8AAiD564tA7Q33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/8E/wKgBZ1ng5beALSxvAAh8lwNSLCU88.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/A1/wKgBZ1ng5biAYLIQAAiUTs8jOlk26.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/B4/wKgBZ1ng5bmAZkUhAAo_wbTkjwo93.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


按照那对夫妻说的,在铁路沿线,随手一拍就是大片,对我而言,谈不上大片,但是每一次快门,都感觉是一幅画卷,让人心情愉悦。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/BC/wKgBZ1ng5bqAey4kAAawO5gwS8g55.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/C8/wKgBZ1ng5bqAMN2tAAecg2ud5GA79.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/CE/wKgBZ1ng5byAPpk1AAnE9IfJ0g889.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


千里青藏线,公路、铁路几乎相行相伴,到了青海与西藏
交界之处它们却分道扬镳。公路从海拔与珠穆朗玛峰
大本营等高的唐古拉山娅口5230米处通过,而铁路则从公路以西50多公里处海拔5072米处的唐古拉山跨越,这里既是青藏铁路的最高点,也是世界铁路的高海拔之最。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/D5/wKgBZ1ng5b2AeIxRAAhzQXYH3cw06.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


寂静、空旷、风雪、神灵、和像我一样匆匆忙忙的过路客在此相汇,这就是唐古拉山垭口的全部有形、无形、逝去的、现存的灵魂和生命。
寒风吹打着五色经幡呼呼作响,过路人们瞬间即逝的出现消失,强忍着严重缺氧而急促的呼吸,心中热血涌动,心跳加速。此刻时间好像嘎然止住,生命也好似变得并不重要,重要的是我的到来、存在和感受……

青藏铁路最高点——海拔5072米。


http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/E1/wKgBZ1ng5b6APYXDAAmadCDpg1M22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


那延绵的雪山,饱含圣洁。由于高反,大家都平息了欢呼声,安安静静地坐在那里,静静地看着窗外,偶有快门声,是对时间的记录。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/EA/wKgBZ1ng5b-ARr70AAgt4g-BBWQ63.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


经过唐古拉山口,或许是整段旅程最为煎熬的时刻,有人躺在床上吸氧,有人直接在过道上呕吐,却正是如此不和谐的画面,
才真正打破人们对青藏铁路幻想——并没有像公众号文章宣传的那样风骚,它也有真实的一面,美好却又残酷。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/F1/wKgBZ1ng5cCAdSZoAAur5Zp6k7435.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


穿过山口,海拔开始一路下降,再次看到了房屋,也看到了行驶的车辆。

http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/3F/FE/wKgBZ1ng5cGAJnsnAArzkesQwuM22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


青藏铁路的一旁,就算青藏公路,偶遇进出的车辆,心里向他们说一声你好。

http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/10/wKgBZ1ng5cOAehP9AAl8nvXCixE34.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/1C/wKgBZ1ng5cSAL37jAAmIoaC5bOk22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/24/wKgBZ1ng5cWAGz4kAAqdDzOnV1096.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/36/wKgBZ1ng5caAcfoJAAqXfWa5_Xk62.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/48/wKgBZ1ng5ceAO9ENAAbuQZmcGjc10.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/5B/wKgBZ1ng5ciAY3RxAAvmERSLfB815.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


由于头疼,我几乎一个下午都是坐在床铺上不动,不敢睡觉,因为睡觉会让头疼的情况加剧。吃了一颗止痛药,安安静静地看着窗外的风景。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/73/wKgBZ1ng5cmAfsovAAnlkXNhFl408.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


房屋越来越多,我知道,距离拉萨
已经越来越近。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/97/wKgBZ1ng5cuAYY_xAAsG_jdyiy484.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11


下午5点30分,列车缓缓驶入了拉萨
站,53个小时的旅程,就这么告一段落。所有人都没有欢呼,安安静静地坐着,似乎不舍得分离。
感觉就像是一场梦一样,在出发前的各种抗拒,到途中的欢歌笑语,再到下车前的安静等待,这是青藏铁路上的生动写照。

http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/A3/wKgBZ1ng5cuAY_1CAAmDo-RBhaI55.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/40/C1/wKgBZ1ng5c2Ad4gVAAnAFbJSKLo69.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F700%2Fq%2F90%7Cwatermark%2F1%2Fimage%2FaHR0cDovL24xLXEubWFmZW5nd28ubmV0L3MxMS9NMDAvOTEvNzAvd0tnQkVGcF9faTZBUHYtZEFBQUwxMzg3aE0wNjk5LnBuZw%3D%3D%2Fgravity%2FSouthEast%2Fdx%2F10%2Fdy%2F11
来到 拉萨站,不免来一张留念,纪念自己疯狂了一把。


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735575740 发表于 2021-7-18 13:59:05

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735575740 发表于 2021-7-25 07:34:16

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查看完整版本: 乘坐53个小时的青藏铁路到拉萨是怎样的体验?